When roofs fail in hurricanes, the first breach is usually at the edges—the eaves and rakes where wind pressures are highest and water is driven inward. In Southwest Florida, this is the weak link that turns a minor shingle or tile loss into major interior water damage.
What “edge metal” actually is
“Edge metal” (often called drip edge, gravel stop, or coping) is the formed metal flashing that finishes and protects the perimeter of the roof:
- Eaves & rakes (steep-slope): Drip edge directs water into gutters and shields the deck/fascia from wind-driven rain.
- Parapets & low-slope edges: Gravel stop or coping caps the edge, anchors the membrane, and prevents peel-back.
- Transitions: Corners, eave-to-rake shifts, and gutter tie-ins are all part of the same wind-and-water control system.
If any part of that perimeter system loosens, separates, or corrodes, wind can “get under” the roof covering and start a chain reaction.
Why edge failures are so common in SWFL
- Peak suction at edges and corners: Hurricane wind creates the greatest uplift around the perimeter. A tiny lift at the drip edge can unzip adjacent courses.
- Water pathway at the deck line: Once the flange lifts, wind-driven rain rides the underlayment and sheathing joints straight into the attic.
- Gutters as leverage: Improperly fastened gutters, or straps attached through the wrong flange, can pry on the edge metal during high winds.
- Corrosion in coastal air: Salt exposure accelerates rust and fastener decay, especially with mixed metals.
- Substrate weakness: Rotten fascia, under-nailed sheathing, or lack of an edge nailer makes even good metal and underlayment underperform.
- Thermal movement & poor details: Long runs without expansion joints, short overlaps, and unsealed miters lead to slotting, noise, and eventual loosening.
The consequences of a small edge breach
- Progressive shingle/tile/metal panel peel-off
- Rapid water entry at sheathing seams and wall lines
- Saturated insulation, ceiling staining or collapse, and hidden mold risk
- Expensive interior repairs far out of proportion to the visible exterior damage
Code intent, simply put
Current Florida codes require drip edge on steep-slope roofs and expect it to work as a wind and water barrier—proper gauge, correct laps, correct fasteners, and correct sequencing with underlayment and flashings. In high-wind zones and coastal exposures, product approvals, fastening schedules, and corrosion resistance are critical. (Exact options vary by roof type and jurisdiction; our scopes are written to the current edition in your city/county.)
How we harden roof edges (our standard approach)
- Start with structure: Re-nail roof decking to current schedules; replace damaged fascia/subfascia; add edge nailers where needed for fastener bite.
- Select coastal-grade metals: Heavier-gauge, properly hemmed aluminum or steel with compatible coatings; stainless fasteners or approved equivalents to resist salt spray and galvanic reactions.
- Use continuous cleats where appropriate: Mechanically locks the edge metal to the substrate and resists peel forces in hurricanes.
- Correct fasteners & patterns: Ring-shank nails or screws of proper length and corrosion class, driven snug (not over- or under-driven) to specified spacing—tightened at corners and high-load zones.
- Underlayment integration: Self-adhered membrane (or seam-taped deck) lapped correctly to the flange, with cap-nailed synthetic or base sheet above—so wind-driven water can’t track behind the metal.
- Sealed laps and miters: Preformed outside/inside corners or shop-fabricated with sealed splice plates; end-dams where runs terminate.
- Gutter interface done right: Hangers on the structural face, not through the top flange; back flashing where needed; sealed box miters; proper slope; splash guards at valleys to prevent overshoot.
- Low-slope/perimeter caps: Cleated coping with splice plates, continuous air-seal, and membrane tie-in to stop flutter and peel-back.
Common installation mistakes to avoid
- Fastening into thin fascia only (no structural nailer)
- Mixing metals (e.g., dissimilar fasteners) that invite corrosion
- Short overlaps or unsealed corners at rakes/eaves
- Drip edge installed in the wrong sequence with underlayment
- Gutters attached through the drip-edge top flange creating a pry bar
- Long, uninterrupted runs with no allowance for thermal expansion
Retrofit options (no full reroof required)
- Replace and refasten edge metal with coastal-grade materials and proper cleats
- Add sealed corner kits and splice plates at miters and transitions
- Install back flashing and rehang gutters with correct hangers and spacing
- Repair/replace deteriorated fascia and add edge nailers for a solid fastening base
- Upgrade the first 3–6 feet of underlayment at eaves to a self-adhered membrane as a secondary water barrier
Inspection checklist (what we look for on site)
- Wavy or lifted rake lines; visible underlayment at edges
- Rust streaks, pitting, or paint loss on metal; white corrosion on aluminum
- Gaps between drip edge and fascia; daylight at corners or miters
- Loose or misaligned gutters, sagging runs, or leaking end caps
- Soft/rotted fascia; nails backing out along the perimeter
- Water staining at soffits or upper wall sheathing after storms
FAQs
Will heavier metal alone solve the issue?
Not by itself. Performance depends on gauge + cleat + fastening pattern + substrate. The system is only as strong as its weakest link.
Can I keep my existing gutters?
Often, yes. We rehang and refasten with the proper hardware and add the necessary flashing so gutters stop acting like a lever on the edge metal.
Do sealed roof decks make edge upgrades unnecessary?
No. A sealed deck reduces water entry after a breach, but stronger edge assemblies prevent the breach that starts the damage cascade.
Bottom line for SWFL homeowners
Your roof edge is the frontline in a hurricane. Upgrading edge metal—along with the backing, fasteners, cleats, underlayment integration, and gutter interface—dramatically improves wind resistance and keeps water out where it matters most.
If you’d like a perimeter-focused roof assessment, Swift Roofing Services can evaluate your existing edge conditions, document risks, and provide an itemized scope to harden the edges before the next storm.